Wednesday, 17 July 2013
Miniature Roses Gardening Tips & Ideas with Fieldsies Lawn Mowing Ballina
The flowers are from 1/2 inch to two inches in diameter, and the range of colors is similar to that of full-sized roses. Most types will bloom from spring until frost. Unfortunately, miniature roses have little or no fragrance. When grown indoors as pot plants, miniature roses need a little special care. Even when grown in the sunniest window, they will usually need supplemental light. You will know your rose isn't getting enough light when the stems seem to stretch out leaving wide spaces between the leaves. Miniature roses also need lots of humidity if kept indoors. Set your pot in a tray of pebbles and water. The pebbles will support the pot above the water level so the soil doesn't become waterlogged. As it evaporates, the water will provide the plant with extra humidity. If your house is very dry, run a cool-mist vaporizer now and then. Spider mites and whiteflies are drawn to indoor miniature roses. To reduce the chances of these pests attacking your plants, give them a weekly shower. Take care to thoroughly rinse both the tops and the undersides of the leaves. To treat whiteflies, use an insecticidal soap at five day intervals or spray with a solution of four parts water to three parts rubbing alcohol -- add a squirt of dish soap for good measure -- and keep the plant out of the light until the alcohol dries completely. Soap spray and alcohol spray also work for spider mites, and you might also try buttermilk spray: mix 1/2 cup buttermilk with 4 cups wheat flour to 5 gallons of water. Quarantine infested plants until you are sure that the insects are irradiated. In extreme cases, you can strip the leaves off the plant and cut it back by half. Don't worry, you won't kill it, and you'll soon see signs of new growth. For the best blooms, use a fertilizer that is high in potassium. The last number in the N-P-K ratio indicates the amount of potassium, and an N-P-K ratio of 5-5-10 is a good choice. Mix the fertilizer to about 1/4 strength and use it once a week. After your roses spend a season indoors, it's best to plant them outdoors and get new, disease and pest-free plants to use indoors. They can be planted directly in the garden or kept in containers, but remember that outdoor plants in small containers can dry out quickly. Harden them off before placing them outdoors permanently. Call Fieldsies Mowing Ballina for all your garden, Lawn Mowing, Abestos & Rubbish Removal in Ballina, Byron, Lismore and the Northern Rivers
Friday, 28 June 2013
7 tips to Lawn Mowing with Fieldsies Mowing 0416377502
Do not mow the lawn when it is wet.
Avoid mowing the grass too short; this is especially the case in winter months. Longer grass usually has a deeper root system, meaning that the lawn is healthier and looks better.
When mowing your lawn cut a maximum of one third of the grasses length.
Ensure that your lawn mowers blades are sharp. Its also a good idea to have spare sharp blades on hand so you can make a quick switch when older blades get blunt.
Try to mow the grass in a different direction each time. The variations in directions can actually help the lawn grow more upright as its less likely for the grass to grow in the pattern set by the lawn mower.
Maintain your lawn mower. Its recommended to keep your lawn mower clean and in good nick.
There can be benefits of leaving lawn mowing clippings on the lawn. They add nutrients back to the lawn as they decompose. http://www.fieldsiesmowing.com
Tuesday, 25 June 2013
Asbestos Removal with Fieldsies Lawn Mowing Ballina Byron Bay and Northern Rivers and Northern NSW
Asbestos is a group of fibers, both natural and man-made, that were widely used prior to mid-1970s to insulate buildings, prepare roof shingles and dry walls, and for the installation of cement pipes and floor tiles. While asbestos is still part of construction materials, certain fibers are no longer being used because of their highly porous consistency that makes them more likely to be inhaled.
Removal of asbestos is essential to prevent a number of serious respiratory problems. Because asbestos can be inhaled and remain in the lungs for several years, it can lead to anything from shortness of breath and coughing to lung cancer and even death.
For removal of Asbestos Fieldsies Lawn Mowing Ballina is here to help with the process. Fieldsies Mowing services Ballina, Byron Bay, Lismore, Woodburn, Tweed Heads Gold Coast and surrounds of the Northern Rivers and Northern NSW. For assistance with Asbestos removal contact Fieldsies Lawn Mowing 0416377502. http://www.fieldsiesmowing.com Lawn Mowing
It is essential to remove asbestos from a building to protect the health of people living or working there. Asbestos removal is also the legal responsibility of the owner of the building, and can only be done by licensed asbestos abatement contractors. Once a building owner identifies the presence of asbestos, he should try and have it removed as soon as possible.
Asbestos can be removed by a number of different methods, although controlled wet stripping is the preferred way because it controls the amount of dust released into the environment during removal. Dry stripping is another popular method for the removal of asbestos because it is inexpensive and relatively easy to do. However, dry stripping is not recommended in most cases because it produces a high level of dust.
How to Care for your Lawn with Fieldsies Lawn Mowing in Ballina and Northern Rivers
No matter the size of your garden a healthy green lawn can make a children's play area or a garden 'carpet'. Yes they do take work but the rewards are worth it if you follow a few guidelines and don't expect your grass to look like a bowling green!
In these times of water restrictions, lawns sometimes have to be left to 'do it tough', but by choosing a drought-hardy variety of turf, you can still have a turfed area that you're proud to display.
Lawn fertiliser
The best way to get your lawn ready for summer is to feed it in spring. It will not only look green it will also be stronger against diseases, patchiness, moss and weeds. It will also help toughen it up for the onslaught of activities it's going to endure when the weather warms up.
As grass doesn't flower, it needs a different type of fertiliser from other garden plants - it's all about encouraging the 'leaves'. And with so many fertilisers on the nursery shelves designed especially for lawns, it can be confusing to know what each one does and which is the product for you. But don't worry, here we'll explain what they do and how to choose what's right for your lawn. http://www.fieldsiesmowing.com
What's what
Organic lawn foods include products like Yates Dynamic Lifter and Organic Life, as well as blood and bone. These are natural products based on ingredients such as animal manures, seaweed, rock minerals and fish and these tend to slowly feed the grass over a period of several months.
Synthetic granular fertilisers like Shirley's No. 17 are chemical fertilizers which contain a mix of major and trace elements and are fast to green up the grass.
Combination fertilisers like Amgrow Organix Eco 88 and Munns Golf Course Green lawn fertilizer combine both organic and synthetic fertiliser ingredients in one product.
Slow release lawn foods include products like Scotts Lawn Builder, a granular fertiliser designed to release nutrients slowly.
Liquid hose-on fertilisers, such as Yates Liquid Evergreen Lawn Food and Garden King Nitrosol LiquidPlant Food are the fastest acting of all the fertilisers. While they don't offer long term soil nutrition, they're great for that quick green up just before a party!
Lawn chemistry
Whether you go organic, chemical, dry or liquid when choosing your lawn food, it's really up to you. The important thing to understand is the N:P:K ratio and you'll find that little chemical equation on the pack.
NPK is nothing complicated. The 'N' is for nitrogen - that gets the leaves green and growing. The 'P' is phosphorous, that'll make the roots grow strong and deep. And the 'K' is for potassium, which helps the grass cope with drought and resist disease.
What's important is the balance.
Some lawn foods that are nearly all nitrogen (like the old fashioned favourite sulphate of ammonia) will cause turf to green up suddenly, resulting in a massive growth spurt in a very short time, but not encouraging a strong root system. The problem with these types of 'instant' lawn foods is that after the first mowing, most of the nutrients have gone and the growth diminishes. Quite often, they cause such fast and tall growth, the lawn will look scalped and scathed after mowing and this is the perfect condition for new weed growth, so these quick fixes aren't a good solution.
Instead, go for a balanced fertiliser which will encourage growth in all the right areas, both above and below ground. Look for an "all rounder" with an N:P:K ratio which is around 11 for nitrogen, 4 for phosphorus and 8 for potassium - slow and steady will definitely win this race. And remember that as long as you get that NPK balance right then the fertiliser you choose is up to you.
Useful Lawn Tips
If you like to apply different fertilisers in different seasons, use one that is higher in nitrogen in spring when the leaf growth is at its peak, and one that is higher in potassium in autumn to help toughen the grass for winter.
If you do use the old method of applying sulphate of ammonia, make sure you apply an organic fertiliser the next time. Constant use of high nitrogen fertiliser will increase the acidity of the soil, which is not good for the natural soil balance - all the earthworms will head next door to fertilise your neighbour's soil!
Expert's recipe
Many gardeners have their own blend of tried and tested favourite fertilisers - and Graham Ross is no exception. Graham likes to use an application of an organic lawn food in autumn, to feed both the grass and the soil. Then in spring he applies a granular chemical fertiliser like Amgrow's Shirley's No. 17, to kick-start the lawn after winter and get it greened up in a hurry.
Applying lawn foods
To get the very best results from lawn fertilisers, you need to apply them the right way. But before you start spreading, follow these preparation tips:
1. If your soil is compacted, aerate the ground with a large garden fork to enable good penetration of the fertilisers. This is also good for water penetration.
2. Remove large-leaved weeds before they set seed over summer and make a permanent home in your lawn. You don't want your fertiliser to be feeding the weeds too. Cover bare patches of earth with some sand or lawn dressing to fill in the holes.
If your lawn is full of hard-to-remove weeds, try using a fertiliser that also contains a herbicide such as YatesWeed 'n' Feed or Osmocote Lawn Builder with Weedkill. But make sure it is suitable for use on the type of grass you have. Some herbicides will also kill buffalo lawns so, as always with chemicals, read the label first.
Spread with care
Plan your route around the garden so that you don't double up on fertiliser as this will burn the grass. Set up a simple string line or lay out the hose in a line to guide you over the lawn. To be sure all the ground is covered, many gardeners apply half the fertiliser in horizontal rows and the other half in vertical rows.
Another approach is to measure up your lawn, then divide the area into quarters. Then mark off your fertiliser container in quarters as well (you'll need to have the correct quantity of lawn food in the container). Start spreading fertiliser over the first quarter of the lawn, then when the first quarter of the container is gone move onto the next. Simple.
For the most even distribution of granular or powdered fertiliser, use a spreader. These range in price from around $20 for a hand held one to $245 for a larger version with wheels, designed for big areas. Ask at your local nursery or shop on line at www.gardenexpress.com.au or www.gardensonline.com.au. Alternatively you can improvise by using an old plastic pot with drainage holes as a shaker.
TIP: Be aware that some of the organic fertilisers can be quite smelly, so plan to fertilise well before a social gathering!
Water Wisely
The ideal time to fertilise a lawn is after good rainfall when the soil is wet. Some fertilisers may instruct you to water before application, whilst others will instruct that you should water after. Always follow the instructions.
Some lawn fertilisers such as Maxicrop Lawn Rejuvenator Granules include extra goodies such as wetting agents, which help the soil to absorb and hold moisture. Alternatively, you can buy wetting agents separately and add at the time of fertilising.
Spring lawn care
Keep your lawn looking good all year round by following the basic maintenance routine. These tasks are usually performed during early spring, just before the main growing season kicks in, but you can also perform them in autumn too. And the winter months are a good time to be on weed patrol.
Thatch removal
If your lawn feels spongy under foot, the chances are its got a build-up of thatch, particularly with buffalo, couch and kikuyu lawns. 'Thatch' is the layer of dead grass that lies above the soil and root system - it can stop air and moisture reaching the roots and encourages fungal disease.
To remove, hire a de-thatcher or scarifier from an equipment hire outlet such as Kennards Hire. These tools cut through and remove unwanted material (but aren't recommended on buffalo grass lawns). For smaller areas, use a metal-tined rake to remove the excess thatch and avoid over fertilising as this can cause thatch build-up.
Over time, all lawns build up a layer of dead grass, or thatch, at their base. Here are the steps to take:
'Core' your soil
Walking, playing or parking your car on the lawn can cause the soil to become compacted. Water then can't soak through, and air can't circulate - it's particularly a problem with clay-based soils.
To de-compact the lawn, hire a corer or hollow tine machine or, for small areas, use a large garden fork and work your way across the lawn. Mechanical corers have hollow prongs that extract plugs of soil, leaving long holes called cores. When dry, use a lawn leveler to rake the crumbled cores back into the lawn. Alternatively fill the holes with sand or sandy loam.
Getting dressed
Top-dressing is really only used to level a lawn or fill in any bald or damaged patches. Use a sandy loam, or a specific soil mix recommended by a local nursery, turf or landscape supplier. Cover affected areas by no more than 1 cm, using a rake to spread the mix, then water in well.
As humus-rich soils hold more moisture, top dressing is best done in spring rather than autumn.
Sweet or sour?
Every year or two, test the pH of your soil. Lawn soil should be slightly acidic (or sour) and there's an easy way to check the level by using a pH kit. This measures on a scale of 1-14 the state of the soil, with 7 being neutral, 1 being very acidic and 14 being highly alkaline (sweet). The pH for lawns should be slightly acidic, ideally around 6-6.5.
So how do you correct it?
On acidic lawns (below 5.5) spread garden lime or dolomite, following the directions on the bag, and water in well. But if the soil is too alkaline (over 7) spread sulphate of ammonia - again to the manufacturer's instructions. Soil pH test kits can be bought from nurseries.
Test your soil before fertilizing to make sure the ingredients can be absorbed by the soil. If the balance is out, the goodies won't get to where they're needed.
Year-round Maintenance Short cuts
Mow your lawn according to the rate of its growth and don't remove more than one third of its height each time. Mowing too often will just give you extra work and may weaken your lawn. To avoid scalping the grass, which can cause root burn, keep the mower blades high. Thick, vigorous and healthy grass can compete with weeds and suppress them.
Weeding out weeds
The best fight against weeds is a healthy lawn but if you have problems, talk with your local nursery about chemical products. You can remove lawn weeds by hand (roots and all) or by applying a selective lawn herbicide - these kill the weeds but not the grass. Moss will often grow in areas that are poorly drained so grab a garden fork and aerate the soil, then rake out and collect the moss with a wire rake. Sulphate of iron is also sold as a moss treatment.
Watering
Learn to reduce the moisture needs of your lawn by not over fertilizing, and not mowing it too short, which causes stress. And to improve water penetration, apply a wetting agent and keep it well aerated by coring at least once a year.
Finally, you can still water your lawn, as long as you follow the restrictions in place in your area. Generally, this involves using a hand-held hose or a watering can and in some areas, using a sub-surface irrigation system on certain days. Always check with your local water authority.
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Monday, 24 June 2013
Winter Lawn Care Ballina with Fieldsies Mowing 0416377502
Winter Lawn Care with Fieldsies Mowing Ballina and Northern Rivers http://www.fieldsiesmowing.com
On the outskirts of Sydney. Recently, this area has had severe frosts with temperatures as low as -6°C. He compared lawn varieties being grown at the farms for frost and cold tolerance.
Couch
Couch is a popular lawn variety for home gardens, but it was actually developed for use in large sunny areas, such as golf courses and football fields. Many home gardens have shaded lawn areas, but couch varieties are not shade tolerant. They also turn brown in winter. The couch variety shown in our segment ('Greenlees Park') was a straw yellow to light brown colour due to the cold, frosty conditions.
Best winter performers
Although the new varieties of soft-leaf buffalo are shade tolerant, some varieties, including 'ST-85', do not hold their colour in winter. Instead, they turn purple and then brown off. However, Don discovered that two of the new soft-leaf buffalos, 'Sir Walter' and 'Palmetto', are outstanding winter performers. 'Sir Walter' was developed by Brent Redman in the 1990s in the Hunter Valley of New South Wales.
Contact Fieldsies Mowing Ballina servicing Ballina, Lismore, Byron Bay and the Northern Rivers http://www.fieldsiesmowing.com
'Sir Walter'
Frost tolerant
Crisp green colour
Soft to touch
Drought tolerant
Herbicide tolerant
Fungus resistant
Holds its green colour in winter, and does not go purple
Performs well in sun and shade
More suitable for cooler regions of Australia than other buffalo varieties
'Palmetto'
Frost tolerant
Deep green colour
Soft to touch
Drought tolerant
Herbicide tolerant (but not as good as 'Sir Walter')
Salt tolerant
Vigorous grower, recovering quickly from damage
Holds its colour well in cool months of the year
Performs well in sun and shade (requires 3-4 hours direct sun per day)
'Palmetto' and 'Sir Walter' are available from turf suppliers. Palmetto turf retails for $6.50 per sq. m. and Sir Walter turf retails for $7 per sq. m.
'Palmetto' is also available in Viro-Cells. This cell grown grass has a well-developed root system, so it establishes quickly when planted out. Viro-Cells cost $23-$28 per pack (contains about 100 plants).
For a list of 'Sir Walter' licenced suppliers visit their website: www.sirwalter.com.au (Australia Wide)
Chemspray's Bin-Die is a selective herbicide, which can be used on buffalo grass. It is available from nurseries and hardware stores for around $16/200ml.
Friday, 21 June 2013
Top Dressing with Fieldsies Mowing Ballina
Top Dressing; When and Why?
Applying a top dressing to your lawn is appropriate when it needs a boost of nutrients, is uneven or contains holes.
You should undertake top dressing to repair holes or uneven lawn just prior to the growing season, usually the beginning of Spring; not when the lawn plants are in their dormant phase or you run the risk of damaging or even killing the lawn entirely. Top dressing for nutrients can be applied at any time. Do not top dress on an annual basis regardless of popular belief as this will just accelerate the build-up of thatch. Avoid top dressing if rain is predicted as the wet weather will make the dressing difficult to deal with and make levelling troublesome.
Top Dressing for nutrients
This type of top dressing application places a thin layer of organic soil mixture over the area of your lawn and adds organic, natural nutrients and minerals. You would apply a top dressing for nutrients if your lawn is in need of a boost as it will encourage the production of new shoots and result in a thicker lawn with the added benefit of then hindering moss and weed infestations. Applying a top dressing will introduce materials to your soil that will improve drainage, allow the soil to exchange gases with the atmosphere more effectively while also promoting the development of the soil’s micro-flora and micro-fauna needed to break down thatch and grass clippings. Top dressing matter will feed the earthworms too, releasing nutrients into the soil. An added bonus is that top dressing allows the soil to retain moisture better during drier conditions as well as allowing excess moisture to drain away during heavy rainfall.
Bags of top dressing mixtures are readily available from turf farms, lawn care centres and nurseries and provide all the relevant handling and application information. Work out the size of your lawn before you buy; as a general guide a 2kg bag will be enough to top dress a square metre of lawn.
Mow your lawn the day before applying the top dressing and rake up and remove any debris to allow the nutrients to effectively penetrate into the soil. Firstly shovel the top dressing into even piles around the area of lawn and then rake the mixture into the lawn until it looks as if the lawn has been lightly dusted and the tops of the lawn plants are above the dressing. Rake in a figure eight motion so that the top dressing mixture is spread evenly. Hose the lawn thoroughly so that the dressing is barely visible.
Top Dressing to fix holes and uneven lawn
Once again mow the lawn the day prior to applying the top dressing; the longer the grass the more sandy loam or clean river sand required to cover the area and a deeper layer of soil will make it harder for the grass to grow through it. Speak to your local landscape supply company for a recommendation on the amount of loam or sand required for the specific area you need to address.
http://www.fieldsiesmowing.com
http://www.fieldsiesmowing.comTo even out the lawn
If the area of lawn requiring evening out is only slightly uneven then you can apply a top dressing up to 12mm at once. For areas that are deeper than 12mms apply one layer of 12mm first and then add another layer. Shovel the loam or sand onto the lawn in even piles and then level with a garden leveller. The top of the lawn plants should remain visible. Once applied and the lawn is even water in the top dressing.
To fix holes in the lawn
For the repair of a hole deeper than 5cms use a shovel to raise the grass on top of the hole, place top dressing material underneath to elevate the level of the lawn. Then apply the top dressing to address any remaining unevenness as per the instructions above remembering that the tops of the lawn plants should remain visible and the top dressing needs to be watered in once evenly spread.
Fertilise; before or after?
The recommendation is to fertilise the lawn a week to two before applying a top dressing regardless of whether this is for nutrients or to repair holes or an uneven lawn. This boost to the lawn plant’s growth will assist the turf to push through the dressing more easily and quickly.
What you should do after top dressing is to water your lawn. Water just after the application and then maintain regular watering to give the lawn plants a boost after what is a stressful process for them
Thursday, 20 June 2013
Lawn Care Fieldsies Mowing Ballina Byron Northern Rivers
Weed Control Natural control of lawn weeds Controlling Lawn Weeds Without Pesticides Weeds don't need to become a problem in the home lawn or garden, and it's usually only when weeds are left unchecked that they get out of control and need major treatments as a cure. In over ten years I have sprayed for weeds only once nearly a decade ago (for oxalis), and my lawn remains weed free to this day.
So lets find out how to stop weeds from over taking our lawns and how to naturally treat them whenever they do become a problem. Hand Pulling Weeds While hand pulling weeds may seem like a chore, it only ever becomes such when weeds are left to get out of control and spread in greater numbers, and it's often when weeds get to this point that we finally look for a solution, which in most cases is often chemical.
But it doesn't need to be this way. Our article on 10 Minute Lawn Care outlines a principle of getting out in the yard and enjoying our lawns and gardens on a more regular basis.
It's not only great for relaxing and spending a little extra time with loved ones and our kids, but it's a great weed control method too. While strolling across our lawns and admiring our gardens, we simply pull out the odd weed when it's spotted. It's so easy and is the best way to control weeds. Because one weed left to grow will quickly become hundreds of weeds within a year.
The trick is to never make it a job, and never spend more than 10 minutes at a time. Corn Gluten Meal To Kill Lawn Weeds Corn Gluten Meal is a godsend for the organic lawn. Corn Gluten Meal is a by-product from the manufacture of Corn Starch, and it's a fully natural weed killer which can destroy many different weed types.
Torpedoes Mowing Ballina likes corn Gluten Meal is a natural pre-emergent weed killer. Pre-emergent means that this product will kill weeds at the stage when they are first sprouting from their seeds and before they have become noticeable on the lawn surface. Timing is crucial with pre-emergent weed killers because they need to be applied at a time when we cannot even see the weeds.
However, the easiest way to use these products to the greatest effect is to apply at the beginning of Spring and again at the beginning of Autumn. Another great feature of Corn Gluten Meal is that it is naturally high in Nitrogen. With Nitrogen being a major nutritional element which is vital for the health of lawns. So not only are we applying a weed killer, we're also naturally and organically fertilising our lawns at the same time, and with no extra effort or expense. Where Can I Buy Corn Gluten Meal Corn Meal may still be difficult to find in some areas of Australia, which is mainly due to our slow uptake of using organic lawn and gardening practices.
But the more we all buy it, and the more we all ask for it, the more it will become readily known and available to us all. If the supermarket-style hardware shops don't stock Corn Meal, be sure to head over to your local Garden Nursery and talk to some knowledgable folks about Corn Gluten meal. Other Organic Weed Killers There are a few other methods to naturally kill lawn weeds.
Acetic Acid Similar to a vinegar type of product, Acetic acid based weed killers should be available at your local garden nursery. Soap Based Weed Killers Another naturally derived product that you should find at your local nursery. Boiling Water Boiling water is not suitable for all weeds, but can still kill many weed types. Boiling water is best suited in situations where hand pulling is not an option. One such environment would be where weeds are growing in the cracks of paving.
Wednesday, 19 June 2013
Fieldsies Mowing Ballina Northern Rivers Rubbish and Asbestos Removal Bobcat Hire
Tuesday, 18 June 2013
Fieldsies Mowing Ballina Byron Lismore - Rubbish Removal Asbestos Removal
Spring time is the perfect time to start your own vegetable garden. For growing success, start by getting the building blocks right – the location and soil. Then select your vegetables and you’re on your way to a bountiful harvest
Homegrown equals healthy – the message has taken hold! The desire for fresh, organic food continues to inspire people to grab a shovel, dig up a vegetable plot and get planting. And even if the only things you’ve ever cultivated are a few shoots on that onion in your cupboard, you’ll find most veggies are a breeze to grow. Check out this guide to starting your own veggie patch.
Location is everything
The most critical starting point for your veggie patch, whether large or small, is deciding where to place your crops so they have the best chance of success. Pick an unsuitable position and you’ll be fighting an uphill battle from day one.
- Spring and summer vegetables need at least 5-6 hours of direct sunlight every day. Any less and you’ll find harvests and plant vigour decrease. You will be more likely to encounter problems with pests and diseases if plants are lacking light.
- Avoid locations exposed to strong winds. They could make the dream of producing your own homegrown healthy food supply a non-starter.
- Ensure you allocate adequate space for the veggies you want to grow, but don’t create an area that’s too big for you to manage (think weeding and watering).
Choosing the right soil
Remember, the better the soil, the better the harvest. So try to get the ground right from the beginning, and your plants will flourish.
- The general rule of thumb is that the soil should be nice and crumbly, easy to dig, and rich with organic goodies. The other essential is that water drains from it freely. So if you have generally good garden soil, dig through plenty of aged manure and compost to enrich it. However, if your soil is either tough clay or fly-away sand, build a raised garden bed and fill it with an improved soil mix bought from a landscape supplier (you can buy this bagged for a small area).
- If you are buying bulk soil, ask your landscape supplier if they have a vegetable growing mix or an organic blend to really help your plants thrive.
- If you want to grow vegetables in pots, use a premium potting mix or an organic vegetable blend potting mix.
Select your vegetables
Once you’ve sorted out the best position for your plot, and your soil or potting mix is in place, you’re ready to finalise your veggie selection and get planting.
- The best starting point when you’re deciding what to plant is to look at the vegetables you use most or find hardest to buy at the greengrocers.
- If you’re a beginner, or just want to make things easier, buy seedlings (young plants 5-10cm high). If you prefer to raise plants from seeds, allow an extra 4-6 weeks lead time. You can simplify seed raising by buying seed tapes – these are made from paper, impregnated with seeds, and can be simply laid out on the soil and covered lightly.
- When selecting your vegetables, have a chat with a horticulturist at your local garden centre. They’ll be able to give you advice on what seeds or seedlings are best for your area at that time of year.
- If you’re planting late in the season, stick to seedlings or advanced plants
Tips for planting
- Read the plant labels and ensure you give them the space they require.
- Position all the varieties in a way that gives you easy access to them when the time for harvesting arrives.
- If the label says your plants will require staking or support, do so when you are planting, not afterwards.
- Keep taller plants, such as tomatoes, to the rear or side of your garden bed, in a spot where they will not overshadow smaller growing varieties.
- Making successive plantings of frequently used crops is an easy and effective way to extend your harvest. So, for example, allow enough space for planting a row or two of carrots every fortnight for a period of 6-8 weeks.
- Consider including companion plants amongst your crops, such as marigolds and garlic, which can act as natural deterrents to a whole range of pests.
- Group together plants with similar requirements, for example those with higher water demands or that prefer regular liquid feeding.
Feeding and maintaining
Vegetable gardens are like most things in life – the more you put in, the better the end result! A little time spent on a regular basis will see you getting great returns from even a small plot.
- At planting time, apply a quality controlled-release fertiliser such as Osmocote Plus Organics for vegetables.
- Liquid feed fortnightly (or weekly if you can), using a soluble fertiliser formulated specifically for vegetables. For veggies that bear fruit, such as tomatoes and capsicums, it’s best to use a ‘flower and fruit’ formulation.
- Keep an eye out for pests, especially caterpillars. These can be safely and easily treated using Yates Nature’s Way Caterpillar Killer Dipel or Success.
- Water your vegetable bed regularly – if the soil is dry 2-3cm down, it needs watering. During hot dry periods, you’ll need to step up the irrigation frequency.
- Keep your beds well mulched with a quality fast-to-breakdown material, such as garden-grade lucerne straw. Only apply it after the seedlings have developed into small plants, and keep it back a little from the stems. Lawn Mowing Ballina and the Northern Rivers
Seeds vs seedlings
Seeds
- In terms of value, it’s hard to beat seeds. A packet is relatively cheap and can contain tens or hundreds of seeds.
- There’s a wider choice available when you grow from seeds, including many heirloom and traditional veggie varieties.
- Seeds need more preparation than seedlings. They must be raised in seed trays and culled to select the best plants before transplanting to the main beds, so they take a while longer to reach harvest stage.
Seedlings
- Most new-release hybrid forms are only available as seedlings or advanced plants.
- The seedling range stocked by your local garden centre is a good indicator of the varieties suitable for your region.
- Most new-release hybrid forms are only available as seedlings or advanced plants.
- The seedling range stocked by your local garden centre is a good indicator of the varieties suitable for your region.
- Seedlings are ready to plant straightaway, with no wastage of plants, and they can reach harvest stage weeks faster.
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